La Gomera

General Description of La Gomera

Smallest of the 7 Canary Islands, La Gomera is also the tip of an extinct volcano: circular and a mere 15 miles across. The central peak is only 4,879 feet high and usually shrouded in mist creating a microclimate ideal for the island's unique bay laurel forest, a protected World Heritage Site forming the Garajonay National Park. The park is threaded with well-marked walking trails and is a hiker's delight. Steep-sided valleys descend from the cool and damp of the peak to the warm equable climate enjoyed on the coast where the main villages and resorts are situated. Like Tenerife, the N is verdant while the S is arid. The major activity for the small native population of 17,000 is still agriculture with cochineal, bananas and tomatoes the major produce. Tourism is very undeveloped as yet but accounts for an increasing part of the island's economy. Tour operators offer accommodation in three "resorts".
SAN SEBASTIAN on the E coast is the island's largest town, capital, port, administrative centre and home to a quarter of the native population. This sleepy little place still has some 15th-century Spanish colonial buildings including the Torre del Conde, a defensive tower intended to keep pirates at bay – unsuccessfully. But its real claim to fame is as Christopher Columbus's last port of call on his trip to discover the Americas. The tourist office still contains the well from which he drew his water supply and the house that he later built here is now a museum.
PLAYA de SANTIAGO on the S coast gets lots of sun and is a working fishing port. The airport lies just to the W but without the largest hotel on the island, Jardin Tecina, this tiny village would hardly merit a 10-minute stop on the island tour.
VALLE GRAN REY on the W coast is the closest thing to a proper resort mainly because it has the island's longest and best beach. Comprising 4 little hamlets spread over 1½ miles it is backed by spectacular soaring mountains. Although directly accessible by hydrofoil from Tenerife the approach by road down the massive steep-sided valley makes the trip well worthwhile. Apartment developments are popping up along the beach and the infrastructure to support tourism is slowly developing.

Market/Suitability

A very quiet, unsophisticated, rural retreat for those seeking total relaxation with the options of scenic drives to see the spectacular mountain scenery or serious hiking in the National Park. Definitely not for the "booze and beach" brigade – or their young offspring. Very popular with Germans, a knowledge of whose language can be more useful than Spanish on occasions, especially in Valle Gran Rey.

Location/Contact

Location: In the Atlantic Ocean midway between the Canary islands of Tenerife and El Hierro.
Position: 20 miles W of the port of Los Cristianos in Tenerife from where ferry boat and hydrofoil services operate to San Sebastian de la Gomera. The hydrofoil also continues to Valle Gran Rey. Small aircraft fly to the local airport at Playa Santiago from the neighbouring islands of Tenerife (N and S airports), Gran Canaria (Las Palmas) and La Palma.

Accommodation

Not a great choice. Apart from the main accommodation offered by tour operators covered here, there are only a handful of small pensions in the main "towns", a couple of apartment complexes at Valle Gran Rey, and a collection of country cottages inland.

Beach

Valle Gran Rey boasts the best pair of black sand beaches but with a good scattering of pebbly stretches. A similar mix, shorter but wider, exists at San Sebastian and is sheltered by being within the large enclosed harbour. Playa Santiago's offering varies from smooth rounded boulders – too heavy to lift – in the lee of the cliffs beneath the main hotel, to finer grey pebbles and shingle near the fishing port.

Shopping

Limited to strictly functional local shops and a few minimarkets to serve the basic needs of the indigenous population of farmers and fishermen. Only the hotel at Playa Santiago has anything approaching a boutique. Husbands of shopaholic ladies can leave their credit cards at home and breathe a huge sigh of relief here.

Entertainment

Daytime: walking or hiking in Garajonay National Park. Scenic drives around the island. Scuba diving. Sunbathing at the beach or hotel pools.
Nightlife: very little other than local bars. Hotel Jardin Tecina at Playa Santiago offers nightly entertainment for residents and the hotel Gran Rey likewise in Valle Gran Rey.

Eating Out

Each resort and village has a handful of small restaurants offering simple local fare that is filling rather than fancy as befits a tiny rural island. Local specialities include watercress soup served in a wooden bowl, several goats cheeses and a piquant spread made from these with added spices, butter and oil called almagrote eaten on bread or potatoes. Local fish and a honey extracted from the palm tree also feature on most typical menus. Some resorts have a pizzeria and the capital, San Sebastian, has a couple of more sophisticated restaurants.

Public Transport

Three bus services run four times a day from San Sebastian to Valle Gran Rey, Playa Santiago and Vallehermoso. Taxis can be called from hotels but are few and far between and often do not work late at night. Car hire is the best option to see the island. Roads are very steep and twisty but usually empty and, thanks to the funds of the European Union, immaculately surfaced with supersmooth tarmac. Just the place to test drive a Ferrari!

Local Excursions

Most excursions round the island by coach are operated from Tenerife. It is possible to do the same trip from the island itself but most visitors prefer to do it by car. Tenerife by boat or hydrofoil is possible for a day or longer. Tenerife, Gran Canaria or La Palma by air.

Serving Airports

Tenerife Sur Reina Sofia (TFS)
Flight time from the UK: 4 hrs